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]]>A CLOSER LOOK AT NASCA, HUACACHINA AND PARACAS
NASCA
I made a quick stop in Nasca on my way to Huacachina, and I’d say that’s all you need. The major pull to this town are the Nasca Lines – Etched designs, carved into the dry desert ground, dating back a few millennia. To see the lines, you can book a flight tour to get the full experience, or you can climb one of the lookout towers to observe a select few designs (this is what I did).
The area has been coined a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and for good reason, as these designs have stood the test of time. The reviews for the flyover tour are amazing, so if you have the time and the money, check them out. If not, I’d scrap it from the list of places to see. Out of all three – Nasca, Huacachina and Paracas – Nasca had the least to see.
HUACACHINA
Further north up the coast is probably the cutest little town I ever did see – Huacachina. Not only does it have a name that is the most fun to say, it’s also the coolest oasis town. Never have I seen a community developed in such a neat place! The accommodations, shops and restaurants that make up this tiny town are nestled around a small body of water – an oasis – surrounded by picturesque sandscapes (a.k.a. sand landscapes). Huacachina is definitely worth hitting up!
ACCOMODATION
I only stayed in Huacachina for a few days, but I wish I stayed longer. There isn’t too much to do there, but I could have taken in those views unlimitedly. I stayed at Banana’s Adventure Hostel, which I highly recommend. A night’s stay is pricier than your average hostel, but it includes an activity for each night of your stay! It also includes breakfast, so…winning!
Banana’s has a pool to relax around and the cutest outdoor set up, with comfy lounge chairs, a tiki bar and a tropical menu. The food is really good, too!
THINGS TO DO
Dune Buggy & Sandboarding
This was one of the coolest experiences I had while in Peru. The brightly coloured dune buggies whip you around the desert and bring you to the top of some pretty gnarly hills to board down.
Board rentals are included in the price of the tour and are just a basic vessel to ride down on. The guides recommend you only go down the dunes on your stomach, and I would listen to their wisdom. From personal experience, sandboarding is NOT the same as snowboarding. It is much more challenging, and I may have walked away with a slight back injury from trying to be a hero and standing up on the board. Don’t be like me.
I do have to say that sandboarding was one of the most exhilarating yet terrifying things I have ever done. It’s one of those things that I only want to do once. Some of the smaller hills were fun, but when we got to the top of the larger hills, looking down was terrifying.
Going down was a whole other form of terrifying. It’s unbelievable how fast you are going. I stayed perfectly still on the descent. I felt like any false move would flip me over, and at that speed, end my life (dramatic, but true). By the time you get to the bottom, your shoes are completely filled with sand as well as your pants, shirt, hair, etc. Trust me when I tell you to wear long sleeves, socks and proper footwear – you don’t want to leave with sand burns.
Overall, sandboarding is something that you need to try once, and Huacachina is the place to do it!
Pisco Tour
When in Huacachina, you have the option to visit the neighbouring city of Ica to experience a vineyard tour. This is a fun and relaxing day that I would recommend to travellers.
You are brought to a vineyard and taught the methods they use to make pisco (brandy) and wine. At the end of the tour, there is a (healthy) tasting and you can browse their shop to purchase your own spirits. It was interesting to learn the process locals go through to produce Peru’s most popular drink – the Pisco Sour!
FOOD
The food in Huacachina was surprisingly good. Two restaurants really stood out to me – Wild Olive Trattoria, and Banana’s hostel.
Wild Olive served the best pizza you could ask for after a day of sandboarding. The portions were big and the patio overlooked the water – what more could you even want? Highly recommend.
Banana’s, as stated above, had a great menu, especially for a hostel. They served up classics like hamburgers and fries, but also had vegan and vegetarian options.
An amazing view, a fun adventure-packed experience, and great food…Check out Huacachina while in Peru!
PARACAS
Paracas is a cute little fishing town, just north of Huacachina, and right on the coast of the Pacific. It is mostly known for its “Poor Man’s Galapagos Islands,” or Islas Ballestas.
Although I enjoyed my stay in Paracas, I don’t think you should spend too much time there – one night is plenty! The town is small, and everything there is to do can be done in a day’s time.
ACCOMODATION
By far the best hostel in Paracas is Kokopelli. It is right on the beach, has a pool, a huge outdoor patio with tons of games, and it is just FUN. The dorms have their own little private pods with a curtain and there are lockers for your belongings. The outdoor patio has pool and foosball tables, an extra large bar, hammocks and the best sign that says “Wish you were beer.” I mean, how can you go wrong?
Oh, and they also provide kayaks and stand-up paddle boards!
THINGS TO DO
Islas Ballestas
I have mixed feelings about this trip. On the one hand, I feel like it was good to get out on the water (as this didn’t happen too much on my trip, despite Peru being a coastal country), and on the other, it just wasn’t what I expected.
Islas Ballestas was the VERY poor man’s Galapagos. I saw a shit-ton of birds and a few sea lions and that was it. It may have been the time that I was there (early August – Peru’s winter), or the day (very overcast and cold), or even my luck, but I just wasn’t too impressed.
If the weather is nice when you are in Paracas and you enjoy being out on the water, I would say “Go for it!” You may get lucky and see some penguins or aquatic life, but know that you may also just be paying to be target practice for the hundreds of birds that inhabit in the area. Making memories either way!
Malecon El Chaco
This is a little pathway that runs parallel to the coastline. It hosts a number of restaurants and stores that overlook the water. It’s a cute little area to walk along, grab some grub, and watch the events happening on the water.
Other than that, there isn’t too much else to do in Paracas, but there are some neat day trips that you can take outside of the city! My top recommendation would be the Paracas National Reserve.
Paracas National Reserve
This is a protected, natural area just south of the town of Paracas. It is a gorgeous landscape where the desert meets the ocean. The waters are turquoise-blue and super picturesque. The reserve is also home to many different wildlife, as an extension of Ballestas, but I wasn’t lucky enough to see any while I was there.
The Candelabra is another interesting spectacle located at the reserve. It is a candlestick-shaped geoglyph that has been etched into the side of one of the coastal ridges, dating back to 200 BCE.
Casa Hacienda San Jose
Another day trip includes this hotel, about an hour drive from the town of Paracas. The hotel, also known as the “slave tunnels” of Peru has a dark history, despite being a sight for sore eyes. It is currently opened to visitors to book rooms, but previously was a sugar and cotton plantation where slaves were smuggled in through the underground tunnels which connect all of the Haciendas in the area. Slavery was legal in Peru at the time, but the owners avoided paying taxes on the slaves by bringing them underground, immediately from the boats they arrived on.
Through the Peru Hop tour I was on, we were able to enter the hotel without staying overnight. We went underground to check out the tunnels, many of which were a tight squeeze! It was creepy, to say the least, but fun at the same time. I recommend taking a quick stop on your way back to Lima to check it out!
Although it doesn’t take long to see it all, Paracas was a definite 10 on the cuteness scale and worth a quick stopover. Take a day to get a taste of life by the sea!
NASCA, HUACACHINA AND PARACAS – WORTH IT!
If you have time and enjoy a slower pace, check out Nasca, Huacachina and Paracas while you are in Peru! You only need a day or two for each place and the experiences offered at each are super unique and picturesque!
Go back to Southern Peru – A Backpacker’s Guide
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ARRIVING IN LIMA – THE CAPITAL
It is very likely that you will fly into Jorge Chávez International Airport upon arrival in Peru. If you are staying in a hostel, you can ask them to arrange a cab for you, which is what I did.
As a solo female traveler, this is always the scariest part…navigating your way from the airport to your first accommodation without knowing which way was up…or much of the language for that matter. I found that having someone waiting for me with my name on a little piece of paper took away a lot of the nerves. If you grab your own cab, just be sure to always settle on a price beforehand or ask for the meter.
WHERE TO STAY IN LIMA
I did a lot of research on the different neighbourhoods and areas of Lima before my trip. The more popular tourist areas include Central Lima, San Isidro, Miraflores and Barranco. As a backpacker, I would recommend staying in Miraflores or Barranco. Central Lima is known to be a little more sketchy at night and San Isidro is too pricey for the typical backpacker. Dorm beds in Miraflores and Barranco average between 15-20 CAD per night (11-15 USD).
Miraflores
ACCOMMODATIONS
I stayed at a hostel called Pariwana when I was in Miraflores, Lima. It was in an excellent location – walking distance to the cliffside and surrounded by cute restaurants, cafes, bars and malls. I chose Pariwana because it not only had great reviews, but it looked like somewhere that had a mix of both chill vibes and a good opportunity to socialize and meet people. It also had breakfast and unlimited tea included and the barkeeps make up some tasty (but dangerous) Pisco Sours. It was clean, the beds were comfortable and the employees were super nice and helpful.
If you stay in Miraflores, I would recommend staying in one of the hostels that surround Parque Kennedy and Parque Central de Miraflores. The park is in the shape of a triangle with the tip surrounded by malls, restaurants and your everyday McDonald’s.
Pariwana is directly across from the McDonald’s. I spent many nights walking the perimeter of the park as this is where you will find many eateries, cafes, cultural events, museums (many of which are free) and food vendors. The coast is a straight, 10-minute stroll down Av. Jose Larco and you should walk it many times, because a view like that never gets old.
Pariwana offered a few FREE tours that you could go on throughout the week. I took advantage of these tours and visited the downtown historic centre (Old Lima) as well as the closeby artsy Barranco neighbourhood. The tour guides worked solely on tips and the tours were educational, fun and a great way to meet people. The downtown tour even included pisco tastings…worth it!
Other hostels near Kennedy Park that have received great reviews are:
FOOD
If you are looking for an authentic experience, try Punto Azul on Calle San Martin. It was by far the best ceviche I had while in Lima. They also serve other popular Peruvian dishes, like tacu tacu (rice and beans) and causa (a potato dish). Everything was delicious and priced for a backpacker! Just make sure you go earlier in the day as it becomes busy and the best ceviche is served at lunch, when the catch is still fresh!
Another delicious, yet economical eatery that I tried was La Lucha Sangucheria. They serve a variety of yummy sandwiches and juices. As it is a chain, you will find a few of them around Lima. There is one located at Parque Kennedy, diagonal from Pariwana. Their sandwiches are loaded with meats of all kinds, from chicken to turkey to ham to the classic chicharron. They serve beverages such as fresh juices, frozen juices, shakes, coffee and pisco sours. Yum!
If you’ve been in Peru for a while and are looking for a change from the local food, you have to try Tierra Santa. It serves shawarma, hummus, pita and all things Middle Eastern. It is DELICIOUS. Some of the best hummus I have ever had. It is decently priced and a short walk from the hostels around the Parque.
Finally, you can’t be in Peru and not have churros. There are so many places to buy them in Miraflores, and all over Peru for that matter. You can purchase them off of vendors on the street or hit up a local cafe to enjoy. I tried the ones at Manolo. It’s a busy place, but the churros here are delicious. Try the filled ones!
THINGS TO DO
Firstly, LARCOMAR. If you like to shop, and LOVE a good view – Go. To. Larcomar. Right on the coastline, this is a pricier, open-concept mall with some more expensive-brand stores, but even if you aren’t making any purchases, it’s something to see. It was worth going solely for the view of the steep cliffside, Pacific waters and the food court palettas. You can also gain free access to the SAM Salla De Arte Moderno Museum right inside of the shopping area. Winning.
Around Larcomar, you can also watch or participate in many fun activities. Sit at one of the viewpoints and watch the paragliders, enjoy a walk down the pier or rent a bike and scoot around Miraflores. You can also take surfing lessons on the beach!
RUINS
I walked to a site called Huaca Pucllana, which only took about 20 minutes from Parque Kennedy. Entrance cost 15 sol (about $6 CAD or $4.50 USD) and included a guided tour which lasted for about an hour. I found the ruins to be fascinating as the city was built up around them so it was like you were standing amongst two worlds – that which was built several thousands of years ago and the modern urban sprawl. It also housed some cute local animals (alpacas and guinea pigs).
Miraflores was my favourite part of Lima. If you are flying into the capital, you need to make a stop in this beautiful and vibrant city!
Barranco
Known as the more eclectic, artsy district, Barranco is another good option for backpackers. It is a bit further down the coast from the airport, but it’s a funky little place where the streets are lined with artwork and culture. It is a popular area for nightlife and food as well.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Although I didn’t stay in Barranco, I have compiled the names of a few hostels that have received great reviews that you could look at if you choose to stay in this neighbourhood:
The Point – A party hostel that is clean, close to the beach and has friendly staff.
Barranco’s Backpacker’s Inn – A quiet hostel, close to the beach and the main square.
Casa Eguren Art Hostel – A highly “Instagrammable” space. This accommodation is a gorgeous 19th century poet’s home that’s been turned into a hostel. The building is surrounded by the city’s art and is a few blocks from the coast.
FOOD
Inspired by fresh markets and seasonal foods, LA 73 is one of Barranco’s hippest bistros. The menu has a good variety and is decently priced if you are travelling on a budget.
Secondly, El Muelle de Barranco is a great seafood and cevicheria option. Their portions are large and prices are low. They have an English menu, despite being full of locals. This hot spot generates a lot of traffic, so it’s best to go for an earlier lunch.
If you are looking for something different, check out Burrito Bar. Everything on the menu is made inhouse and is a delicious representation of Mexican cuisine. They serve burritos, tacos, quesadillas and chips with salsa. They also have a variety of refreshing drinks, including a few craft beers!
THINGS TO DO
Firstly, just walking the streets is exciting when you are in Barranco. It is so “hip” and eclectic and there is art everywhere. Take in the sights and enjoy the coastal views with a stroll through the neighbourhood! You will likely stumble upon the “Bridge of Sighs,” or La Puente de Los Suspiros, in Spanish.
The Bridge of Sighs
This bridge is one of the most popular symbols of art and love in Barranco. History says that it was a meeting place for men and women looking to find love and “woo” one another. The sounds of romantic “sighs” were what gave this bridge it’s name. It is also said that if you can hold your breath as you walk it’s entire length, one of your wishes will come true. I tried, and might I just say, I was successful. I can’t remember what I wished for though.
You will also likely come across Barranco’s Main Square. An exciting place to be, as it is constantly booming with local artists and performances. Standing in the square, you will have a 360 view of some of Barranco’s beautiful architecture and colourful buildings. It is worth a visit to just hang out and be amongst all of the daily happenings.
As Barranco is an art-forward town, you can’t skip out on it’s contemporary museums, especially MATE. This museum was founded by Mario Testino and shows an impressively modern display of artworks which focus on culture and heritage.
Finally, on your walk around town, you will come across the Bajada de los Baños, a long walkway leading down to the coast. As an old fishing village, fishermen used to walk the path to the Pacific. Now, it is lined with a number of restaurants and watering holes to stop in at.
Barranco is just a 30-minute walk from Miraflores. You can’t get lost as you just need to follow the coastline until you hit Larcomar. Both districts are well worth a visit!
YOU NEED TO VISIT LIMA – THE CAPITAL CITY
Lima – the capital, is an exciting city regardless of where you choose to stay. Enjoy the food, walk the cliffside, drink a pisco, and try surfing in the Pacific. It’s well worth a visit!
Go back to Southern Peru – A Backpacker’s Guide
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